Stray Kids' Felix, Urassaya Sperbund, And Life Aquatic At Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024
Rain or hailstorm can’t take away the beauty that is the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 collection. The setting: Isola Bella, an opulent island sitting atop Lake Maggiore in Italy just a few clicks outsides of Milan. Built in the 17th century, the Palazzo Borromeo is one of the many historic properties privately owned by the highly influential Borromeo family—who counts several popes, cardinals, merchants, principes and principessa within their blue bloodline across centuries.
The brilliant line up that Nicolas Ghesquiere creates for this, meanwhile, goes beyond European aristocratic riffs. Just like the recent success of Netflix’s Queen Charlotte: A Bridgerton Story as well as UK’s much televised King’s coronation, one might say that the Louis Vuitton Cruise collection is imbued with modernity and packed with multi-references.
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For the opening looks, Ghesquiere boldly contrasts neoprene with embroidered silks and dives into full on scuba-suits even in some. Details like fins, gills and scales in a form of jackets, tops and paillette skirts conjure up a picture of wondrous aquatic creatures that Steve Zissou would have found in his deep sea journey. The element of sports continues with embroidered shorts layered with bicycle tights and colourful sneakers.
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We're only at the first half of the line up and there’s already some scene-stealing flowy coats, sculpted jackets, and a multitude of draped pieces that would have worked both editorially as well as commercially. For the next half, Ghesquiere delves into the romantic side of the story. Out come the beautiful nymph-like numbers but edged up or layered with futuristic reference—another dimension that he always visits—think Botticelli’s “The Birth of Venus” if Venus was a modern girl in the 21st century. Here the showing leans towards the cool with some baggy pants that are heavily embroidered and super tactile, worn with equally textured toppers or admiral’s jacket and The Pirates of Penzance flat boots.
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For the last few looks, Ghesquiere creates what would’ve been best described as if “sea waves can be worn as a dress”—a concoction of silk chiffon bias-cut gowns in soft hues with suspended silhouette—a dramatic turn in the collection and make a great red-carpet dress selection.