111 Garments That Defined Modern Fashion

How did the crew neck T-shirt come to be a fashion staple? The upcoming MoMa exhibition, Items: Is Fashion Modern?, aims to answer that question with 111 of the 20th and 21st century's most ground-breaking pieces of clothing and accessories, on view from October 1. From the Birkin bag, the burkini and the beret, to fashion archetypes like the hourglass figure and the badass motorcycle jacket, the exhibition features designers like Ralph Lauren and Norma Kamali. “We go back in time to show how these objects came to be,” said the MoMA’s design curator Paola Antonelli, who wanted to create a living encyclopedia of the world’s most influential garments. “The goal is to get people to think differently about what they wear.” Scroll through for a sneak peek of the exhibition.

From: Harper's BAZAAR US

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A-POC LE FEU, BY ISSEY MIYAKE AND DAI FUJIWARA, 1999

Japanese designer Issey Miyake broke new ground when he created A-POC (“A Piece of Cloth”), an early computer program designed to take fabric rolls and create clothing without leaving many scraps. “It helped reduce waste,” said Antonelli. Photo: Yasuaki Yoshinaga

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MOMA

COMME DES GARÇONS DRESS, 1997

Though it looks like an abstract sculpture, this Comme des Garçons dress first debuted in 1997 as part of a collection called “The Body Meets Dress—Dress Meets Body.” Filled with padding to change the shape of the body, designer Rei Kawakubo wanted to question the convention of the hourglass figure. Photo: MOMA

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NEW YORK YANKEE SCARLET FITTED CAP, 1996 I

In 1996, filmmaker Spike Lee asked the New York Yankees if they would make a red version of their snapback (at the time, they had only made blue hats). He wanted a red hat to match his red bomber jacket. “It was a defining moment,” said Antonelli. “Now, you can get Yankees hats in yellow, grey and red, several colors.” Photo: MOMA

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DR. MARTENS, 1990S P

Paired with chinos pants, a model wears a pair of Dr. Martens, the British boot brand that first launched in 1960. The leather boots became a staple during the grunge era in the 1990s for both men and women. Photo: MOMA

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SLEEPING BAG COAT, 1990

New York fashion designer Norma Kamali was camping with friends in the summer of 1990 when she had to use the bathroom in the middle of the night. “She ran to the bathroom wearing her sleeping bag over her, which gave her the idea for the ‘sleeping bag’ coat,” said Antonelli. “The goal was to be warm, not stylish. Photo: Gilles Bensimon

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THIERRY MUGLER PEPLUM DRESS, 1981

Here, French designer Thierry Mugler takes exaggerated silhouettes and puts them into one simple dress. The peplum is a reference to 19th century clothing, and combined with its low neckline, represents “power dressing,” which came to rise in the 1980s. Photo: Thierry Mugler

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DOOR-KNOCKER EARRINGS, 1980S

One of the key jewelry pieces in the show is a pair of bamboo-patterned, gold door-knocker earrings. A symbol of African American fashion, the earrings have been made famous by Salt N Pepa and Rihanna. With the recent controversy around the mural in Claremont that read: “White girls, take off your hoops,” it raises questions around cultural appropriation as fashion statement. Photo: MOMA

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PENCIL SKIRT, 1954

The first pencil skirt was designed by Christian Dior in 1954 and quickly became a staple of the working woman. Here, find a pencil skirt worn by Joan Holloway from the Mad Men TV show, as well as newer takes on this classic. “The hardest part of the pencil skirt is that they’re so hard to walk in,” said Antonelli. Photo: MOMA

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LEATHER MOTORCYCLE JACKET, LATE 1950’S

The iconic leather jacket was first created by New York designer Irving Schott, of Schott NYC, in 1928. The first jacket ever to have a zipper, it took off in the 1950s after being popularized by Marlon Brando and later, The Ramones. “It basically defined the myth of the biker,” said Antonelli. Photo: Schott NY

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WHITE CREW NECK T-SHIRT, 1910

The simple, white T-shirt has become an essential item in everyone’s wardrobe, but how did it get there? Starting as an undergarment in the Navy in 1910, it's shown in the closing part of the exhibition, which focuses on power attire, alongside business suits and briefcases. “Billionaires are now wearing T-shirts,” said Antonelli. “It opens up another discussion altogether.” Photo: Shutterstock

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LEVI STRAUSS & CO. WAIST OVERALLS, 1890

Levi’s 501s is the classic symbol of America, but the jeans were influential long before James Dean. Originally designed for farmers in the 19th century, they were popularized during the Second World War. Today, they’re a global phenomenon. Photo: Levi's

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