From The Wilderness To The City Of Ulaanbaatar, Here’s How To Explore Mongolia In Four Days

As it turns out, Xanadu does exist, about 1,580 metres above sea level and a three-hour drive out to the wilderness from Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia. Sure, the voyage, literally, is a lengthy flight from most international airports, but the cerulean skies as far as the eye can see, rolling green hills covered in vibrant flowers and herds of horses galloping freely are well worth the trip.

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Of course, it took time for a proud city-goer like myself to adjust to this picturesque reality at the annual Xanadu festival organised by the Genco Tour Bureau. This four-day escapade allows guests to live like Mongolian nomads from the 13th century, but with modern luxuries.

Standing atop a mountain and battling chilling wind speeds that would have me tumbling down if not for the oversized deel—a traditional tunic that comes in an array of colours and ornate embroidery—anchoring me and my resolve to find that one bar of cellular service, I asked myself: “What are you doing?”

Disconnected from the world but feeling at peace, I stumbled into the car with the guide and rode back to the campsite, fully prepared to embrace this cultural experience that few get as it remains a by-invite-only event, at least for now.

Live like a nomad

When it comes to Mongolian iconography, the ger—modular and portable tents—instantly comes to mind. At the main camp, a dozen of these unique accommodations are scattered around the King Palace—a grand ger at least six metres tall—acting as a common area for guests to indulge in the extensive buffet spread of Mongolian-fusion dishes and the open bar at any time of the day.

The King Palace is also a commune for wayward souls who could use a little rejuvenation. Daily sound baths and yoga classes, conducted by professionals, combine forces with the sonic landscape to guide the group into an introspective meditation to free the mind, body and soul.

Serenity extends beyond the King Palace, especially for those who need to work out those intense spiritual and physical knots. A reiki specialist is available throughout the day to provide holistic healing via massage therapy and deeper meditation sessions.

Several tribes are scattered around the King Palace and are accessible on horseback. The herders’ tribe welcomed me with a yoghurt drink and fermented milk delicacies called urum and aaruul. Guests can try their hand at milking the cows but I preferred the comforts of the kitchen indoors where milk products are made, such as shimiin arkhi, a milk vodka, which I rewarded myself with before leaving to see the next tribe.

Further out, the education tribe, as the name suggests, is about teaching the youth and guests all about the history behind the traditional Mongolian language and writing before the country was colonised. The craftsmanship tribe is home to the makers of textiles, rugs and decorative hangings stitched from yarn from sheep, camel trimmings and cashmere. Nothing goes to waste, including the native flowers that are turned into natural dyes to colour the harvested pelts.

The shaman tribe is just five minutes from the King Palace, and it is arguably my favourite camp to visit as a believer in the mystic. Mongolian shamanism includes the religious beliefs and rituals where the leaders call upon the spirits to provide visions, blessings and healing. These rituals can also include music, dance and chanting in ceremonial garb and masks.

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I had hoped my private audience with the shaman would be quick and easy but the ancestors thought otherwise. Cradling ancient bronze coins in his palms and tossing them from one another, the shaman struggled to divine a message for me.

Eventually, he provided clarity to my conundrums while adding that I certainly do not make it easy for myself and those around me. Of course, I was not going to turn a blind eye to the shaman’s suggestion to make an offering to the ancestors for support. Following sacred traditions, I grabbed a cup of milk and tossed it onto the totem in the centre of the tribe for good luck before heading back to the King Palace.

A customary barbecue feast of lamb, beef and the works greeted me, followed by thrilling performances by a contortionist, who shot an arrow upside down with her toes, and a snake charmer with his docile reptilian friends. As the drinks flowed and the party extended into the night, I headed back to my ger to pile on a down coat, warmed my now frozen lip balm in my hands and admired the expansive view of the starry sky before snoozing till the first light.

There was a buzz in the sublime morning air as the camp staff prepared for even more festivities. A medieval tourney of sorts called for traditional sports such as wrestling, a huntress and her eagle hunting for prey and an archery competition, just to name a few.

Unfortunately, my time in Mongolia being short and sweet meant that I could only catch a glimpse of these events before driving out to civilisation, where I had yet to experience the best of Terelj National Park.

Exploring Terelj National Park

As we approached the highway, cellular service finally returned along, with a string of concerned texts from my loved ones whose imaginations painted a tableau of a rabid wolf hunting me down in the dead of night—I don’t blame them, it’s an actual possibility. A video call with my parents was quickly interrupted by the first pitstop—Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex. The towering monument at 40 metres was an unbelievable sight and tourists agreed with a collective “wow”.

The visitor centre can be found beneath the feet of the statue, where staff were eager to tell the legend of the most iconic Mongol in history and of his legacy. After the crash course, I ascended to the top of the horse’s mane to get a closer look at Chinggis Khan and a panoramic view of the region as rain clouds rolled in.

Cold, damp and famished, my Genco Tour guide took the liberty to order Khuushuur, a deep-fried pastry filled with lamb and beef that is delectably similar to the pan-fried dumplings that can be found in most Asian cuisines.

After the quick snack, we were off again with nothing but the open road and clear skies ahead, except for the occasional animal crossing. My guide jested: “There are more sheep, cows and horses than people in Mongolia.” I noticed a string of construction sites and learnt that the hospitality scene is booming, resulting in modern resorts popping up across the country since the pandemic; but my destination for this leg was quite the opposite.

Pulling up to the Terelj Resort felt like I was being transported back in time—the brutalist and lofty architecture, the vintage ’60s upholstery and the bellboy who raced to get my bags the second I stepped through the doors-—honestly, it had an old-world charm that barely exists today.

The heritage of this riverside hotel dates back to the 1960s and 1970s, when it was mainly used by Soviet army officials, which explains the labyrinthine hallways and the overall grandiosity that led to the resort’s five-star rating once it was opened to the public. While the plush suites, luxe lounges and amenities such as the pool, the spa and the gym are exactly what the doctor ordered after roughing it out in the wilderness, the great outdoors is what makes this place unbeatable.

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Guests have access to two rivers behind the resort that flow out to the Khagiin Khar glacial lake, which is mesmerising in summer and winter. Not to mention trails for animal lovers to spot wild horses, bears and over 250 species of birds. If your achy feet need some relief, the Yestii natural hot springs are just a stone’s throw away. Left to my own devices for the rest of the evening, I took an early dinner and headed out to the courtyard facing the rivers with a book. In hindsight, it was a rather pointless effort as my phone failed to leave my hands but I still enjoyed the tranquillity all the same.

Experiencing the city Of Ulaanbaatar

With batteries charged and my sleep debt paid, it was time to bid Terelj Resort and the national park adieu as the city of Ulaanbaatar beckoned. Needless to say, I was thankful for the guides who brought me from one location to the next, especially since I do not have a driver’s license of my own—a crucial aspect for travellers who prefer exploring Mongolia free and easy.

My last full day in the capital was dedicated to deeper education on Chinggis Khan and the non-nomadic people of Mongolia. First up, the Chinggis Khan National Museum. Tons of artefacts from pottery to weaponry dating to Khan’s empire are housed here, depicting the tales of his conquests that stretched from South Korea to Eastern Europe.

The Gandan Tegchenling Monastery was next on the itinerary. The compound was a culmination of several temples where monks held rituals and taught future generations about their ways. Buddhism in Mongolia dates back to the 4th century but many temples in the countryside were burnt down under the Soviet regime, leaving only a handful in the cities.

I ventured off to Sukhbaatar Square in the city centre where the government conducts its daily affairs. To my amazement, this rather official-looking area was a happening hangout for teens scootering about and couples on dates. There was even a FIBA 3x3 Women’s Basketball competition in progress.

My craving for retail therapy was quickly satisfied by the GOBI Cashmere Galleria nearby. Fortunately, for the Mongolians who experience harsh winters, cashmere is abundant to keep them warm and the material remains one of the country’s key exports. With the softest purple ombre sweater on my back, hot off the racks, I requested to experience the Mongolian nightlife. My guide quickly whisked me off to a speakeasy located in the basement of the Shangri-La hotel.

“Looks like the VAULT is almost ready; we need to get in tonight before we leave tomorrow,” said an American businessman to his travelling companion as we headed down to this exclusive club.

A little on the nose, VAULT lies behind a heavy-duty metal door guarded by an intimidating bouncer but its interior is much more inspired. With three distinct rooms, the club caters to a wide variety of guests looking to either dance the night away, have a private event with champagne and cigars on-demand, or simply to enjoy one of the gastronomic cocktails developed by award-winning bartenders.

The club also functions as an art gallery for local artists to showcase their pieces, all of which can be purchased and delivered to your doorstep once the exhibition is over. Downing my final drink, I decided to take the scenic route by walking back to my hotel with my guide in tow, a good excuse to digest the plates of food we had devoured.

As I soaked in my last hours in Ulaanbaatar, relishing the deliciously cool air with every foggy breath, I couldn’t help but notice how surprising Mongolia has been at every turn and bump, from city to countryside. Although my visit was much too short, I took home enough unbelievable stories to regale others with, that is, until my next return to this idyllic land where adventure and discovery await.

Click here for more information about The Xanadu Festival and here for the full list of Mongolia tour packages by Genco Tour Bureau.