In the lush Ambanja region of Madagascar, within the nurturing confines of the Chanel Open-Sky Lab, unfolds a story as delicate as it is complex. Here, the Vanilla Planifolia reveals its secrets in a fleeting annual bloom. The meticulous care invested in these ephemeral blossoms, hand-pollinated within mere hours of their appearance, reflects Chanel's deep commitment to nurturing beauty at its most elemental. This dedication forms the foundation of their pioneering work in the study of senescence, the intricate biological process where cells lose their vitality, influencing the skin's journey with time.
Ageing at a cellular level
Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel's skincare innovation is rooted in the study of senescence, a biological phenomenon where cells progressively lose their division capability, influencing skin ageing. In this process, while most cells are typically replaced by younger ones, some cease dividing and accumulate, becoming 'senescent' cells that disrupt neighbouring cells and hasten ageing. Senescence unfolds in three stages: initiation, where cells show early ageing signs; diffusion, as these cells emit stress signals triggering similar ageing in adjacent cells; and installation, the stage marked by an accumulation of aged cells leading to more pronounced akin ageing signs. Addressing senescence effectively requires not just prevention but also the activation of natural processes to eliminate and recycle these senescent cells.
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Chanel's exploration of these complex stages of cellular ageing has been greatly enhanced by a strategic collaboration with professor Johannes Grillari and professor Florian Gruber from the University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences in Vienna. This partnership has been pivotal in advancing Chanel's research, enabling the brand to delve deeper into the science of skin ageing and cellular vitality. Through this collaboration, Chanel has identified new biomarkers and developed sophisticated models for studying cutaneous senescence, enhancing their understanding of skin ageing at both the cellular and tissue levels.
This rich vein of research has enabled Chanel to create highly targeted skincare formulations, exemplified by the integration of polyfractionated Vanilla Planifolia in their products. The process of polyfractioning increases the concentration of active molecules in Vanilla Planifolia, making it an extraordinarily potent ingredient for promoting skin regeneration and repair.
Botanical Mastery
Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Vanilla Planifolia is a challenging plant to cultivate and demands meticulous care and attention. Its annual flowering period is critical and fleeting, often lasting only 24 hours before the flowers wilt, thus requiring immediate and precise pollination. This narrow window for pollination necessitates a labour-intensive process where skilled hands must work quickly and carefully to ensure successful fertilisation for the plant to produce the Vanilla Planifolia pods.
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Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
The unique environment of Madagascar plays a crucial role in nurturing Vanilla Planifolia. Its specific climate and soil composition endow the plant with remarkable antioxidant properties, vital for skin rejuvenation. Chanel’s commitment to sustainable cultivation practices is evident here, where they engage local growers who ensure the highest quality of growth while maintaining ecological harmony. Post harvest, a sophisticated polyfractioning process enhances the plant’s natural properties, concentrating its active elements to create an extract 40 times more powerful than the plant itself. This extract, integral to the SUBLIMAGE skincare range, is a concentrated embodiment of Vanilla Planifolia’s natural regenerative power.
Queen of the Night
Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
SUBLIMAGE L’Extrait de Nuit stands as a crowning achievement in Chanel’s skincare line, marrying years of dedicated senescence research with the exquisite botanicals cultivated at their Open-Sky Lab in Madagascar. Specifically designed to harmonise with skin regeneration, this serum optimises the natural repair and rejuvenation processes that are most active during sleep.
At the heart of its formulation lies the fusion of two potent ingredients: the polyfractionated Vanilla Planifolia from Madagascar and Himalayan Swertia. This combination is not by chance. Vanilla Planifolia, known for its outstanding regenerative properties, works perfectly with the reparative qualities of Himalayan Swertia. Together, they target the three critical stages of cellular senescence—initiation, diffusion, and installation—addressing the comprehensive spectrum of skin ageing.
Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
The benefits of regular application of SUBLIMAGE L’Extrait de Nuit are multifaceted, where skin appears well rested, plump and radiant. As the formulation works on all three stages of senescence, visible improvement can be seen in the skin’s hydration, wrinkles, firmness and glow. SUBLIMAGE L’Extrait de Nuit offers a moment of indulgence and care in your nightly skincare ritual, treating the skin to the highest level of skincare science enveloped in a sensorial journey.