Fillers have long been a go-to for those looking to subtly enhance their facial features, addressing fine lines and restoring volume where needed. This is especially so around the delicate eye zone, which tends to lose collagen—a key component of skin’s structural integrity—faster than other parts of the face.
Dr Ewen Chee, founder and medical director of The Chelsea Clinic, explains that this is because “the skin around the eye is the thinnest in the whole body, and it also ages faster biologically”.
The under-eye area or tear troughs gradually deepen as the skin loses collagen over time.
Collagen, which makes up 70 percent of the skin, gradually diminishes from the late 20s, says Dr Chee. This leads to visible changes such as under-eye hollows, crow’s feet, and dark circles that appear as dark blood vessels are more visible through thinner skin.
He adds that lifestyle factors like smoking and drinking alcohol can expedite collagen degradation, with excessive UV light the biggest culprit of all, while the shrinking of bone and fat around the face also contributes to volume loss.
In response, the aesthetic industry has leaned towards dermal fillers and laser treatments to counteract these effects. Yet, the trend is shifting towards options that preserve the face’s natural dynamics, avoiding the overdone look.
Mr Lin Ming Yi, CEO of global biomedical company Sunmax Biotechnology, says: “In recent years, we’ve observed that those seeking beauty enhancements are pursuing natural post-procedure results that avoid stiffness or unnatural movements, with an emphasis on safety.”
To that end, collagen injectables offer a solution to collagen loss by subtly enhancing the under-eye area. So if you’re considering adding collagen injectables to your beauty regimen, here’s what you should know.
What collagen injectables are made of
The most commonly used fillers are made with hyaluronic acid, which help to plump lips or rehydrate dry skin, explains Dr Chee. However, collagen fillers are derived from a natural source that’s usually of animal origin, such as pigs and cows.
“Collagen can also be processed to be pure and free from antigens that might cause reactions. We call these atelocollagen, which means the ends of the protein chain which can cause allergic reactions are removed,” he adds.
The collagen injectable from Sunmax, for instance, comprises 99 percent pure collagen sourced from porcine skin. Mr Lin explains that the collagen undergoes a purification process to make it compatible with the body’s own system—it’s almost identical to human collagen—which makes it less likely to lead to adverse reactions.
How it helps plump and brighten the eye area
Collagen is produced by fibroblasts but the activity of fibroblasts decreases with age, says Dr Chee. He explains that one way to stimulate collagen production is through controlled micro-injuries delivered into the skin, which sparks a natural wound healing response that ramps up collagen production.
“Collagen injectables not only add to existing collagen but also act as bio-stimulators, encouraging fibroblasts in the skin to produce more collagen,” Dr Chee says.
Upon injection, the collagen filler goes to work, actively forming new collagen fibres and reinforcing the skin’s structural integrity around the eyes where it tends to get thin and hollow. The collagen also breaks down into peptides and amino acids that help brighten dark circles and improve skin quality.
What to expect with collagen filler treatments
As everyone’s skin is unique and ages differently, it’s important that collagen injection treatments are customised to the patient’s specific needs for natural-looking results, says Dr Chee.
“Starting from the top layer of the skin to the bone, we assess volume loss and concurrent ageing signs. Then we tailor the treatment plan to the individual – because the key is to keep it natural,” he says.
The viscoelasticity of the collagen filler is a key factor, as it allows doctors to adjust the thickness or thinness of the collagen to the specific needs of the patient’s skin.
“For instance, if you have deeper tear troughs or hollow areas, the injection needs to go deep into the skin, so the filler should be thicker and more solid-like to provide ample support,” says Dr Chee.
Mr Lin adds that a highly viscoelastic collagen injectable is also less prone to shifting or deforming with facial movements, post-injection. A lower injection force also allows doctors to be more precise when injecting the product in a patient’s skin.
“By providing safe and effective medical aesthetic products, we want to empower women to radiate with confidence and brilliance from within, under the expert care of medical professionals,” says Mr Lin.
A topical numbing gel is applied to minimise discomfort. The entire process takes about 30 minutes in total, with minimal to no downtime. Effects last for around eight to 12 months, depending on factors such as the patient’s own body and how much filler was injected.
To achieve the desired effect, multiple sessions may be required, with six to nine months in-between, says Dr Chee. To maximise the treatment’s longevity, he says to avoid aggressive massaging or applying heat to the treated areas and steer clear of energy-based aesthetic procedures on the face for at least two weeks post-treatment.
Always consult with a certified medical aesthetic physician before starting any collagen injectable treatments.