Inside The Buccellati Legacy: A Century Of Passion, Heritage And Craftsmanship
We trace the history of Milanese jeweller Buccellati, a bastion of Italian goldsmithing that merges traditional craftsmanship with the subtleties of Venetian lacework.
Only a handful of jewellery houses match the heritage and artisanship of Buccellati, a jeweller that has illuminated the world of Italian jewellery for more than a century, and whose founding family is still involved in the running of the business. But beyond its name, it has become a custodian of Italy's venerable goldsmithing traditions. Embodying artistry, and the relentless pursuit of beauty, its story is testament to the enduring power of passion and the transformative touch of meticulous craftsmanship.
At the helm of this illustrious house was Mario Buccellati, a visionary whose journey began in the late 19th century. Born in 1891, Mario's passion for metals and gemstones was ignited under the tutelage of Beltrami & Besnati, an eminent Milanese jeweller and goldsmith. It was there that he honed his skills and nurtured a fascination for ancient techniques, particularly those of the Renaissance period. But little did he imagine that this would lay the foundation for a business that would burgeon into an international phenomenon.
The Milan Via Santa Margherita store in 1919.
Inspired by the expert craftsmanship he had witnessed during his apprenticeship, Mario unveiled his first jewellery store in 1919 on Largo Santa Margherita, just steps away from the famed La Scala Theatre. Coupled with his fascination for forgotten techniques and reverence for the Italian Renaissance, Mario sought to create pieces that echoed the richness and grandeur of Venetian craftsmanship. Transcending mere ornaments, his designs were an homage to the sumptuous fabrics, delicate damasks, and fine Venetian lace of the era. Texturally rich and intricately designed, his jewels bore the marks of a craftsman, who saw his materials as canvases for storytelling.
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A Prestigious Clientele
Mario’s reputation soared, earning him a place among Italy’s most esteemed jewellers. At the same time, the Buccellati brand was quickly garnering a prestigious clientele, among whom was the famous Italian poet and novelist Gabriele d’Annunzio, who aptly hailed Mario as The Prince of Goldsmiths. Not only did Mario’s creations adorn luminaries of the various royal families of Italy, Spain and Egypt, he also supplied ornamental objects to the Pope, as well as the great cardinals of Rome.
Mario Buccellati and his sons.
The artistic visionary possessed an incredible entrepreneurial spirit and in 1925, went on to establish two more boutiques in Rome and Florence. Buccellati quickly gained renown, leading to expansion beyond Italy's borders. Mario ventured into the American market, opening stores on New York City's 51st Street in 1951, and later on the prestigious Fifth Avenue and Palm Beach's Worth Avenue. The business became a true family legacy when his sons, particularly Gianmaria, took the helm after Mario's passing in 1965.
The Legacy Lives On
Gianmaria, who was also Mario’s apprentice from a young age, inherited his father's passion and skill. A jewellery maestro in his own right, he managed the workshops, production and oversaw all creative aspects of the brand, including conceiving and designing every piece that left the workshop. Gianmaria's commitment to innovation and tradition propelled Buccellati to new heights. The house ventured into different realms, which saw silver objects and timepieces added to its repertoire.
A sketch of Buccellati’s Tulle design juxtaposed against a high jewellery piece from the Tulle collection.
He further expanded the brand’s global footprint, opening the first Italian jewellery boutique in Hong Kong in 1970 and later establishing a presence in Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, and Paris' prestigious Place Vendôme. Today, under the stewardship of Gianmaria’s son, Andrea Buccellati, and the creative input of his daughter Lucrezia, the brand continues to epitomise the pinnacle of Italian craftsmanship.
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The Art of Rigato, Tulle, and Beyond
Buccellati’s Macri collection features its Rigato technique to create pieces that look like the finest silk woven from gold.
At the heart of Buccellati's signature identity are distinctive engraving techniques that hark back to the Italian Renaissance. The Rigato technique features closely spaced parallel lines as fine as hair meticulously carved with a traditional engraving tool called the burin. As a result, an ethereal sheen is imbued to the gold, transforming it into radiant silk that seems to be lit from within. This method, seen in the Macri collection, imparts a textural sophistication and iridescence that mirror the finest silk woven from gold.
A model wears a ring and bangle from the Opera Tulle collection.
Equally captivating is the Tulle method, an even more delicate and labour-intensive process that highlights Buccellati's command over precious metal. Here, tiny bits of metal are removed meticulously to create a mesh-like effect that mimics the gossamer delicacy of fine lace. It's this ability to manipulate gold and silver with such finesse and subtlety that sets Buccellati apart, elevating each creation from an accessory to a wearable piece of art.
As one can surmise, to don Buccellati is to don history. Each creation ensures that traditions and history live on with each stroke of the burin. It is this intertwining of heritage and innovation, and marriage of the past and present that define Buccellati's place in the world of fine jewellery-a place of timeless elegance, where every creation is a canvas for history and a bridge to the future.
Discover more of Buccellati here.