Inside The World Of Alexander McQueen Corsetry

Despite its controversial past, the corset has become a fashion staple over the last few decades. No longer a restricting undergarment, today’s reiterations are more wearable than ever and can be styled in a multitude of ways (without having to gasp for air).

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As a recognisable house signature, corsets have been reinterpreted many times by Alexander McQueen, but for Spring Summer 2021, the brand’s creative director, Sarah Burton, looked to reimagine the waist-cinching silhouette by showcasing the softer, more romantic side of the garment while emphasising its bare bones and detailed construction.

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Forming the basis of everything from mid-20th century line dresses with exploding asymmetric skirts to knitwear in a gentle colour palette of ivory, camomile and tea rose, Burton chose to scan a handful of corsets from the Alexander McQueen archive to provide surface detailing for certain pieces in the collection. The scanned corsets were first printed onto paper to refine the scale, then onto jersey bodices and polyfaille skirts. Archive tulle skirts were also scanned and repurposed as photographic prints for the collection.

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Below, Harper’s BAZAAR Singapore got a behind-the-scenes look at the making of Alexander McQueen’s exquisite, digitally enhanced Spring Summer 2021 corsets.

Behind-the-scenes look at the making of Alexander McQueen’s exquisite SS21 corsets

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Signature Alexander McQueen tulle boned corsets are digitally scanned.

Behind-the-scenes look at the making of Alexander McQueen’s exquisite SS21 corsets

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Different colour tones are explored during print trials.

Behind-the-scenes look at the making of Alexander McQueen’s exquisite SS21 corsets

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The colours are decided upon and digitally printed before being engineered on to the skirt. The boned tulle corset is digitally scanned flat. The print on the layered tulle skirt is photographic.

Behind-the-scenes look at the making of Alexander McQueen’s exquisite SS21 corsets

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The colours are decided upon and digitally printed before being engineered on to the skirt. The boned tulle corset is digitally scanned flat. The print on the layered tulle skirt is photographic.

Behind-the-scenes look at the making of Alexander McQueen’s exquisite SS21 corsets

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The corset paper artwork is then cut and placed onto the bodice during the fitting process to trial the print engineering.

Behind-the-scenes look at the making of Alexander McQueen’s exquisite SS21 corsets

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Once the placement is decided upon, a three-dimensional miniature paper doll is created to finalise it before the final fabric is printed.

Behind-the-scenes look at the making of Alexander McQueen’s exquisite SS21 corsets

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The bodice is also made life-size in paper to ensure the placement is correct given the complexity of the design.

Behind-the-scenes look at the making of Alexander McQueen’s exquisite SS21 corsets

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An example of the screen print using the layered tulle skirt.

Behind-the-scenes look at the making of Alexander McQueen’s exquisite SS21 corsets

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