Exclusive: How 'Squid Game' Director Donghyuk Hwang Brought Louis Vuitton's Pre-Fall 2023 Show To Life

Over the past few years, Seoul has quickly risen to become a global fashion capital, with major luxury brands eyeing the South Korean city - with its spending power and growing cosmopolitan class - as a premier destination for shows, key activations and more. As a modern metropolis with hundreds of years of rich history, it is, after all, a major gateway to the East; luxury high-rises and corporate headquarters stand tall next to heritage sites like Gyeongbokgung Palace. And with the firm grip the Korean entertainment industry has on the rest of the world, it's no surprise that brands are turning to Seoul for cultural capital, too, with K-drama and K-pop stars being named brand ambassadors left and right.

This is the context with which Donghyuk Hwang, the mastermind behind 2021 smash hit, Squid Game, was brought onboard as creative advisor for Louis Vuitton's magnificent pre-fall 2023 show on the Jamsugyo Bridge, overlooking Seoul's Hangang River. Spearheading such a high-scale production, it turns out, was no easy task - the show kicked off a series of activations meant to further the brand's footprint in the city, thanks to a tie-up with Seoul Metropolitan City and the Korea Tourism Organization. But it managed to set an extraordinary precedent for what possibilities there are to come, the sort of cross-cultural magic that can only happen when you bring together some of the world's most creative minds for a limited time only - fitting for a brand which keeps the 'Art of Travel' close to its heart. Read ahead for an exclusive interview with Hwang on how this creative collaboration came about.

How did you feel when Louis Vuitton first contacted you to discuss this collaboration?

When Louis Vuitton first approached me about collaborating, I must admit I felt nervous. As someone who had never attended a fashion show before, I wasn’t sure what to expect. However, as I learned more about the project and the fact that the show would be held at Jamsu Bridge, a site familiar to me, I became increasingly interested and curious.

How did you work with Nicolas Ghesquière and his team?

My collaboration with Nicolas began with a Zoom call, and he struck me as a very kind and open-minded person. From the outset, he was receptive to my ideas and created an environment where I felt comfortable sharing my thoughts. He concretised and visualised my ideas and showed them to me, to which I returned my feedbacks. He was very respectful of my opinions on the music selection as well. Thanks to Nicolas and his team’s efforts, we were able to create a show that truly showcased the spatial quality of Jamsu Bridge.

What was your inspiration for the scenography of the set?

The inspiration for the set design came from Jamsu Bridge itself, which is named after its tendency to submerge under water during heavy rainfalls. Whenever I saw the bridge submerged in water, I imagined myself walking across it. By projecting images of water onto the floor, pillars, and roof of the bridge, I aimed to create an immersive experience that would transport viewers to that same flooded bridge.

Related article: Inside The Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2023 Show With Chloë Grace Moretz

Can you tell us more about the projections and lighting during the show?

The projections and lighting during the show were designed to further enhance the immersive experience. I wanted the runway to appear as if it were completely submerged in water, with the river flowing underneath and water jets creating a fountain at the finale. To achieve this effect, we projected a video of blue water shadows onto the bridge and surrounding area, plunging the audience into the deep blue river.

And what about the music?

Through the music, I aimed to showcase the metamorphosing cycles of water and life across the four seasons. I chose various Korean music pieces to capture the essence of the event taking place in Seoul. We kicked off the show with the first opening line of “Honey Nongak (a traditional Korean Folk music)” by Kim Duo Soo Samulnolri to portray the thawing movement of the river. This was followed by Sanullim’s “Not Already,” released in the late 70s when Jamsu Bridge was built, to set the tone for a cheerful spring vibe. I also chose “First Love” by Pearl Sisters to convey the ambiance of the spring season. The pop music and French music, originating from Louis Vuitton’s home country, were used to express a summer of ordeal and turbulence. Apollinaire’s verbal recital of the poem “Le pont Mirabeau” was also featured like music in the show. Finally, the show’s finale was accompanied by “It’s Accomplished” to express the thriving fruition of autumn after withstanding a stringent ordeal.

What was the highlight of this experience? 

The rain and wind were torrential on the night before the show, keeping me up all night with worry. Even on the day of the show, the weather was still freezing, and the wind didn’t seem to die down. I wasn’t sure if the models could start walking in that weather. However, when the guests sat down, and the show began, the wind magically started to dwindle. A fantastic scene unfolded on the runway. At that moment, all my apprehensions vanished, just like that. 

How did you feel witnessing your creative vision come to life at the venue?

I felt very nervous, with many worries swirling around in my head. The cold weather was one thing, and I was also concerned about whether the projection would go well with the surroundings. I couldn’t anticipate how the audience would react to the Korean traditional music and old Korean pop songs that I selected for the initial part of the show. However, as the show began, the lights. changed, and Hoyeon in Nicolas’s clothes started walking to “Not Already.” I remember thinking to myself, “Yes! This is it!”

Did you find any similarities between working on a fashion show set compared to a television or film set? 

Producing television shows and films require collaboration among a lot of staff, just like a fashion show. I lead the production as a director and writer, but it is the actors and staff who ultimately bring my vision to life on screen. I felt that preparing for a fashion show shares this aspect of the process. The designer’s work is central to the show, but the coordination and collaboration of countless people’s ideas are vital to preparing for ht parts of the show that supports presentation. In light of how it takes a collective effort, I think creating a fashion show can be similar to television of film production.

Related article: Hyein, Park Hyung-sik, Hwasa, And Sporty Meets Chic At Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 23

How did it feel interacting with Hoyeon in such a different context from Squid Game?

I was aware that Hoyeon was a model, but this was my first time seeing her work as one. I couldn’t help but say “wow…” when I saw her walking on the runway. This was a new side of Hoyeon, so different from what I have known over the years. Hoyeon was an amazing model, as much as she is an incredible actress.

What does Seoul symbolise for you?

Seoul has been the capital city of this country for over 600 years. Underlying this city is hence an immense body of its history, culture, and people of Korea. Seoul has undergone a faster transformation than any other city in the world, and rapid development is still ongoing. It makes you wonder what changes are waiting for this city in the years to come. For me, Seoul symbolises a transformation of our lives, the metamorphosis of human life at full speed - and the fear that comes with it. Seoul is arguably the best city to represent this sentiment. Through looking at Seoul, I think we can peek at what the future holds, the resultant amalgam of changes that we went through, better than in any other places.

The Hanging River has been described as the true heart of Seoul. How important are its banks to the city’s cultural life? 

The Hangang River is the largest river on the Korean Peninsula, and the city of Seoul has been shaped and developed along its banks. The main roads that traverse the western and eastern ends of Seoul run along the south and north of the riverbanks, which also remain popular spots for people to relax. The river is the sole source of drinking water for Seoul’s residents too. In many ways, the Hangang River is a lifeline for Seoulites, both physically and psychologically.

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Photo: Louis Vuitton

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Photo: Louis Vuitton

Could you tell us about your background and how you got started in the industry?

During university, I was part of a student political movement. But it did not turn out quite successful and I went through a rough period. To pass the time, I turned to watching films every day. I did not want to do nor be anything then, but watching the countless films led me into the world of filmmaking. I thought if I am meant to do something in the world, it would have to be a filmmaker.

What are your next projects? 

I’m currently focusing on the second season of Squid Game. After this, I am planning to work on a feature film called KO Club.