In Conversation With Christophe Lemaire On The Uniqlo U Fall/Winter 2021 Collection
The artistic director of the Uniqlo Paris R&D Centre talks about the inspiration behind his latest collection for the label, his favourite pieces and how it’s all made.
Christophe Lemaire, artistic director at the Uniqlo Paris R&D centre. Photo: Courtesy
In Conversation With Christophe Lemaire On Uniqlo, Style And More
French designer Christophe Lemaire has had an incredibly colourful career—and he’s showing no signs of stopping anytime soon. Prior to his current role as artistic director at the Uniqlo Paris R&D centre—a research and development centre in Paris where Lemaire and his team innovate design concepts within the Uniqlo brand such as LifeWear and Uniqlo U—Lemaire was artistic director at Hermès and Lacoste.
Lemaire got his start interning at Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurent and Thierry Mugler, and eventually founded his eponymous label in 2014. These days, he’s focused on running his multi-million dollar brand as well as creating novel ways of garment-making at Uniqlo.
Ahead, we speak exclusively with Christophe Lemaire to find out more about his inspiration behind his latest Uniqlo U collection, the details that make it special as well as who its made for.
Uniqlo U Fall/Winter 2021. Photo: Courtesy
In Conversation With Christophe Lemaire On Uniqlo, Style And More
What inspired the Uniqlo U Fall/Winter 2021 collection?
Changes in lifestyle have created new needs—and clothing has to adapt to the times we live in. Now, more than ever, function, versatility and comfort are necessary design elements in fashion. The outdoors—and activities such as walks in the park and cycling—were key inspirations for this season and going forward. At Uniqlo U, we’re all about designing for today—and tomorrow.
Why did you choose these colours? And what vibe were you going for?
Our indoor surroundings have greatly influenced our lives, and we wanted to reflect that in the colour palette—soft browns, ceramic whites, muted blue-green, charcoal grey and black with bright accents. At the same time, we wanted to mirror our connection to nature with calming shades of ochre, moss as well as the magenta and purple of sunrise.
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Uniqlo U Fall/Winter 2021. Photo: Courtesy
In Conversation With Christophe Lemaire On Uniqlo, Style And More
Tell us more about the fabrics used in this collection.
Soft, easy fabrics have beautiful fluidity. Natural fibres such as lambswool and cotton feel cozy and comfortable. Also, cotton has a fresh simplicity for tailored and workwear pieces, as well as outerwear, which is infused with invisible tech to help protect against the elements.
What about the silhouettes and cuts?
The idea was to create versatile styles fit for soft layering that enable a seamless transition from indoor to outdoor. These pieces were designed to be worn on its own or layered over and under other items; with the right proportions, lengths of sleeves and hems, size and fit to work perfectly together. Freedom of movement and comfort are offered through loose and oversize silhouettes—in other words: Elegance and ease.
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Uniqlo U Fall/Winter 2021. Photo: Courtesy
In Conversation With Christophe Lemaire On Uniqlo, Style And More
Tell us more about how leg wear can elevate a look.
Absolutely! The silhouette of an outfit is an ongoing conversation between the top and bottom, with the lower portion grounding and finishing the outfit. This season, we’ve introduced leg wear to be a great styling element that’ll add colour and intrigue—whether rolled all the way up or scrunched down.
What are your favourite pieces from this collection?
The short trench with BLOCKTECH is a timeless, elegant piece that works well with everything—it's also weatherproofed, and provides ease of movement. I also really like the track pants with a front patch pocket and hooded zip-up—these’ll add a casual, modern vibe to any look.
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Uniqlo U Fall/Winter 2021. Photo: Courtesy
In Conversation With Christophe Lemaire On Uniqlo, Style And More
What about the kids collection?
It’s a fun, spontaneous experience. While the styles look just like the adult versions, we really wanted to give kids the room they need in clothes to accommodate their active lives. The collection emphasises on freedom—to run, jump and play all day.
To end, tell us about the philosophy behind the Uniqlo U pieces.
Every Uniqlo U piece is designed to appeal to all people, everywhere. From simple, sophisticated styles to casual fits and a varied colour palette, there’s something for everyone. We also look into larger grades between sizes to accommodate more body shapes and types as well as shades to integrate easily into every wardrobe. The price point is also democratic—these are well-made, long lasting pieces of great value for everyone.
*This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.