By Aaron Kok - published
Couture isn’t child’s play, but that didn’t stop Maria Grazia Chiuri from diving into a softer, surrealist and childlike world for her haute couture spring/summer 2025 outing at the House of Dior.
After all, we live in surreal times where headlines bemourn new and unprecedented times day after day, that sometimes, it’s so tempting to escape into a world of simple pleasures: one where you can simply marvel at beautiful adornment, admire the intricacies of craft and be surrounded by joyous fashion.
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Chiuri’s starting point was the 1958 collection by her predecessor Yves Saint Laurent, where the dresses presented were cut to swing away from the body. It was a radical moment for fashion—given the excessive use of heavy fabrics and the body-focused line that dominated the decade before—and one that foretold the popular A-line shapes of the ’60s. She also cited the works of surrealist painter Dorathea Tanning as another source of inspiration. Tanning’s artworks often employed naive-looking subjects in fantastical worlds, dressed in supple fabric that seemed to float around the body.
Models, adorned in mohawk-like head decoration and lace-up ballet flats, showcased looks that ran the gamut of daywear such as frock coats, bloomer shorts and easy broderie anglaise dresses, while the evening called for more sumptuous pieces embellished to the hilt with fringe or romantic rosettes. Here are some of our favourite looks from the collection.
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Look 1
There’s something about the opening look that feels so quietly beautiful. From afar, the tone-on-tone embellishment doesn’t quite stand out and that’s exactly what makes this look so fascinating. You want that surprise when you approach closer; that sense of “wow” when you realise the coat and the skirt are covered in gothic black roses and feathers.
Look 21
This fashion editor loves a well-tailored piece, and he got it from this beautifully-cut white jacket. Taking its silhouette from the iconic Bar Jacket, this pristine topper gets a gothic twist by way of a double-breasted front dotted with tiny buttons that reference the dresses of the late 1800s.
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Look 52
Here comes the drama! Dior is a brand known for its flower-like dresses, and this incredible frock blossoms out into a lively explosion of boned ruffles. Taking it further into the floral theme, dimensional floral-inspired embroidery and embellishment add glimmer and shimmer to the look.
Look 55
One of the key focuses of the season was the use of crinolines. Of all the hip-jutting looks, this one caught my eye for its highly romantic feel. There’s a certain sense of fading beauty to it—perhaps it’s the dusty lilac or the matte floral embroidery—that lends a poetry to this dress.
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Look 56
Chiuri shines best when she sticks to a clean silhouette and allows the craftsmanship to shine. Here, dégradé fringe is employed to create a sense of softness, and when paired with strass-covered ballet flats, brings together a sense of girlish charm that will sell well with clients.