By Aaron Kok - published
On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Louis Vuitton showcased its spring/summer 2025 collection. On a raised runway that was assembled by hundreds of travel trunks combined together, models showcased Nicolas Ghesquière’s newest collection, which sought to explore a softer, easier side of his design lexicon.
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Ghesquière has long had a penchant for time-travelling collections, often exploring futuristic and historic designs in the same stroke. While he continued this time-warping streak, he aimed to explore the ‘soft power’ approach to dressing. After all, his past collections have long exalted sleek, stern lines and architectural forms, so to bear left into softer terrain felt fresh and new.
The French designer’s era of choice was the Renaissance period, which held a personal connection given that Ghesquière was brought up in the Loire Valley of France, known for its many picturesque castles with walls adorned with centuries-old paintings. In true fashion, he still lent his contemporary eye to interpreting these historic costumes, which resulted in looks that borrowed whiffs of Renaissance garments tempered with a nonchalant air and gentler tailoring.
We’ve rounded up some of our favourite looks ahead, and spoiler alert: don’t expect anything Ghesquière does to look like a Renaissance faire.
LOOK 2
In a toss up between the opening look and the one the followed, I had to go with the second purely because of how eye-catching the contrasting stripes of cherry red and cobalt blue were. The balloon sleeves call to mind the silhouettes of King Henry VIII, but when paired with a loose blouse and flat sandals, immediately takes on an air of casual cool.
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LOOK 7
Breeches were big in the times of the Ren’, and here, they’ve made their comeback as a pair of cropped trousers that drape down to the knees. One of the things that Ghesquière challenged his ateliers to do was to swap their roles: flou did tailoring, and tailleur handled draping. This look best encapsulates the result: lines that do away with severity, and drapery that feels intentional.
LOOK 15
One of the items that were commonly worn by people in the Renaissance regardless of class was the classic smock, that usually served as an undergarment of sorts. Here, it’s brought to the forefront and given a glam update with cabochons dotting its delicate front.
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LOOK 24
Accessories also had a moment on the (literal) platform this season, and this look was one that got me excited. Sure, the all-black outfit feels classic and will solve your fashion woes on mornings where you can’t decide what to wear, but the feathered shoes and the double bags will make your heart skip a beat. The voluminous, plush heels feel like a kookily luxe way of amping up the drama, and the double bag is loved for its practicality.
LOOK 50
To cap off the collection, Ghesquière called on the creative skills of French artist Laurent Grasso, who is best known for his works that combine classical landscape paintings with sci-fi elements. Grasso’s work was replicated on printed blouses and paired with car-wash skirts for added panache. Of the three, this one was the one I loved most because the gold-washed tones feel like a subtle homage to the signature brown tones that Louis Vuitton’s trunks are known for.