By Aaron Kok - published
At the time of writing, the big news from the auction world is that Jane Birkin’s original Hermès handbag is expected to go up for bidding within the month. The well-loved bag has matched—or even surpassed, depending on who you ask—the reputation of the late actress herself. It’s adored across the world, reinvented itself time and time again, and constantly applauded as a holy grail item for generations to come.
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It also speaks to the enduring consistency that Hermès has come to be known for. In the past months, the world of fashion has seen a game of musical chairs where fashion designers are shuttling in and out of fashion brands every other Thursday. Change is inevitable and good, but so is the promise of dependability—of design that melds form with function, of craftsmanship, and of an unwavering dedication to making magic spark even in the most minute and fleeting details.
On a wet Friday—as the clouds hang low over the Blade Runner-esque buildings that watch over Shanghai’s Huangpu River—Hermès showcased this very steadfast idea, in what is known as “Chapter 2” of the fall/winter 2025 collection that womenswear creative director Nadège Vanhée first unveiled in Paris earlier this year.
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As the show lights lifted, a row of towering orange-washed louvre windows swung open to reveal the glittering cityscape that became the live backdrop of the runway; a meeting of tradition and futurism. Early looks made the mood clear: Vanhée was all about the outdoors. While we were in the bustle of the city, the Hermès woman is ready for another kind of adventure. Where to? Who knows, but one thing’s clear: she’s got a caravan of fabulous clothing cut for the journey (and beyond) in tow.
Buttery soft leather opened the show, cut into coats that could be worn multiple ways—zipped up, cropped, or whichever way you can conjure by toggling the ingeniously-placed zippers. They were stellar propositions, not just because of the sumptuousness of the hide used in the making, but also because to make what they will of it. Essentially, this is Hermès, worn your way.
The House’s equestrian roots were also on full display in this show, right down to the heel. Many of the jackets featured trims of equestrian cords in place of threaded whipstitching, and there was one particular bomber jacket that featured quilted silk scarves; as if the wearer had decided to turn her jacket inside out. Elsewhere, the classic Jumping Boot got redone in eye-catching sparkle—an after-party in the fields, perhaps?—and hiking boots were cut from biscuit-coloured suede or luscious burgundy leather. One knit dress sporting a purple and orange diamond motif cleverly revealed that it was woven with riding cords upon closer inspection.
The outdoorsy spirit also extended to the rest of the accessories, or more specifically, the way they seemed to be so effortlessly styled that one can’t help but feel tempted to rush home and try it out immediately. This editor, for one, fell for the House’s take on the scarf-over-cap trend that is so popular with social media fashion folk now, and made it oh-so-Hermès. After all, who better to show you how to style a scarf than the brand who sells a scarf every few minutes somewhere in the world? Here, they were rolled up and looped into a stirrup-inspired scarf ring, before being knotted over a leather baseball cap. It was impossibly cool, and it’s this kind of calling card that reminds people Hermès can do ‘trendy’ just as well.
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Oversized Kelly bags were casually slung over the shoulder, and in place of Labubu dolls attached to their bag handles—of which there were many amongst those in attendance—we saw leather bottle holders looped onto these exaggerated bags instead. For those who prefer their Kelly purses smaller, Vanhée suggested wearing it across your body and underneath a roomy wool poncho or a sleek white coat. It’s as if the French designer recognises your hiking fanny packs, and wants to give you a way to elevate it.
Yet, perhaps the most remarkable thing about this collection is just how current it feels. It doesn’t rely on tired tropes of chinoiserie that so many designers automatically employ when they look to the Far East for inspiration. China and many parts of Asia offer bustling, modern metropolitan landscapes, after all, and we need clothes that reflect our hustle and speed. Stroll through Shanghai’s people-packed streets and you can sense that hum of modernity and future-first thinking.
Therefore, it’s smart for Vanhée and her team to play up that sense of contemporary edge, especially in the styling. These were pieces that, when taken apart from the outfit, easily fit into your wardrobe. Yet the way that they’ve been deftly put together for the runway has made this collection exciting to behold. Bring on the layering of shirts! Give us the foulards curiously woven into one’s hair! Those plush knit sweaters wrapped around the collier de chien belts? We’ll take one in every colour! Oh, and who can forget the leather-wrapped headphones worn around the necks, which will almost certainly guarantee a waiting list as soon as it drops in the months ahead?
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As the final procession of models made their way back out, one couldn’t help but wonder: where is Vanhée’s muse going? Is she hiking around a forest trail in the Alps, with chic outerwear at the ready to brave the elements? Is she pounding the pavements of Tokyo in a beautifully-tailored, sinewy leather dress? Or is she embarking on an adventure too fantastical to even dream of, that she requires her best-made clothing by her side?
The destination is still unknown, but wherever the Hermès woman is going next, we’re following.