The Lion, The Wings And The Comet: Chanel’s Reach For The Stars High Jewellery Collection Pays Tribute To The House’s Icons

“If you were born without wings, do nothing to stop them from growing,” said Gabrielle Chanel. This was a motto that she herself lived by—as seen from her childhood as an orphan culminating in an extraordinary career as a designer and businesswoman, followed by her enduring legacy as a visionary—and one that informs the new Chanel Haute Joaillerie Reach for the Stars collection.

Launched in Kyoto earlier this year—and seen on brand ambassadors and Friends of the House like Kim Go Eun, Aokbab Chutimon and Fala Chen—the brand’s latest high jewellery collection is an invitation to, as its name suggests, reach for the stars. An ode to glamour and savoir-faire, each spellbinding creation is a testament to what can be achieved when the sky is the limit; be it the designs, the technical know-how or the gemstones.

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Many of the pieces are in black and white, as a nod to the House’s signature colours. You’ll also find just as many pieces sporting bold and brilliant coloured stones. When dreaming up the collection, one of the guiding lights for the late Patrice Leguéreau and the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio was the idea of golden hour: “We wanted to create jewellery pieces that are illuminated by the rays of the sunset and beyond, with those colours blazing across the horizon—capturing that magical moment between day and night when high jewellery sparkles on the skin.”

Split into three chapters—wings, the comet and the lion—the collection consists of statement chokers, cuffs and between-the-fingers rings; delicate cascading necklaces and drop earrings; as well as pieces that somehow manage to be imposing and impossibly exquisite at the same time.

Nowhere is this paradox more evident than in the masterpiece of the collection, the Wings of Chanel necklace: a pair of diamond wings extends and wraps around the neck, flanking an exceptional 19.55-carat cushion-cut Padparadscha sapphire that captivates with its vivid pink and orange hues, from which hangs a long detachable pendant made up of comet and circle motifs. It’s striking, no doubt; yet it’s also soft and sensual.

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Wings of Change

The Wings of Chanel necklace, and all the other winged jewels in the chapter, mark the first time that Leguéreau and the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio have interpreted the symbol of wings (making Gabrielle Chanel’s quote at the start much more poignant).

The technical mastery involved in articulating the pieces is apparent. The lines, curves and movement require the utmost attention to detail for comfort, flexibility and precise positioning, such that the jewellery appears to float and move with the wearer’s body.

This flexibility and freedom can be seen in all the resulting creations, many of which are transformable. The pendant from the Wings of Chanel necklace can be removed, allowing you to wear it as a bracelet while wearing the necklace in its shorter form.

The Full Swing necklace consists of a wing punctuated with a pear-shaped diamond. From the top, side and bottom of the wing, a delicate chain extends such that you can position the clasp at different points, to be worn in a Y-shape or a long sautoir format.

The same goes for the Full Swing earrings: on one side, a wing and chain; on the other, a comet and pear-shaped diamond; with both pendants interchangeable to maintain the asymmetric effect.

Then there’s the Free Move belt-necklace, a whimsical piece that can be worn in three different ways: as a belt, a sautoir necklace and a double-row format. It’s about the freedom to move, the freedom to dress, and the freedom to express yourself—a sentiment echoed throughout the collection.

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Blazing Star

Naturally, a collection called Reach for the Stars has to have a chapter dedicated to the motif. In 1932, Gabrielle Chanel presented the world’s first high jewellery collection: Bijoux de Diamants—yet another example of her revolutionary spirit, and her ability to dream big and boldly go where no one has gone before.

The “star” of the show, so to speak? Star motifs, which she thought of as “eternally modern”. She was right, of course; there are few symbols as timeless and as versatile, and Leguéreau and the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio prove that with the star-spangled designs in this new collection.

Inspired by an haute couture gown, the Dreams Come True necklace features the 1932 comet with a brilliant-cut diamond sitting front and centre, lined on both sides with woven black chains and diamonds evoking the night sky.

Many of the pieces feature the comet accompanied by a burst of shooting stars, adorned with coloured stones: the Rise and Shine earrings, for one, has white gold, diamonds and sapphires.

The Five Stars ring is a between-the-fingers ring that comes in five variations, including a pink iteration with pink gold, diamonds and pink sapphires; and a yellow version with yellow gold, diamonds, garnets and lacquer.

The fun continues with the Aim for the Stars set, which has the word “stars” literally embedded in the design. Comprising white gold, diamonds and pearls, the necklace can be worn as a choker or as a bracelet.

But the piece de resistance for the Comet chapter has to be the Silhouette Clock statuette: Gabrielle Chanel in yellow gold wearing a tweed jacket, top and pants, paired with a hat and pearl necklace; perched atop a black jade mantel studded with white gold-and-diamond stars and a blue lacquer dial. Even in statuette form, one can sense the confidence emanating from Mademoiselle Chanel.

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Lion Heart

With a legendary Leo as its founder and namesake, it’s no wonder that lion motifs are a mainstay in the House of Chanel, whether it comes to clothes, accessories or high jewellery.

Lions have been part of the Chanel haute joaillerie universe since 2012. This time around, the studio has found a new way to present the magnificent creature: in profile. A dazzling creation that showcases the Maison’s savoir faire and dedication to innovation, the Embrace Your Destiny necklace depicts two winged lions guarding a pair of pear-shaped diamonds, surrounded by a starry cascade of diamonds on the side and below. Lions are regarded as a symbol of protection in many cultures—and just as they often stand guard at the entrances to buildings, protecting the premises, this open necklace echoes that; the lions against the wearer’s chest, protecting what’s within. It’s a piece that is as stunning as it is symbolic.

Elsewhere, the lion takes pride of place, its head facing us, as if encouraging you to look at it and be inspired by all it represents: strength, courage, wisdom. The Follow Your Heart, Sky is the Limit and Fly High necklaces combine all three motifs in one, with the lion’s head flanked by wings and capped off with a comet below.

A celestial burst of stars make up the lion’s mane in the Be the One and Strong as a Lion sets; across necklaces, rings and earrings.

Over the course of three chapters, through hours of research and design, in the skilled hands of the Maison’s skilled craftsmen, Reach for the Stars depicts glamour according to the House of Chanel: scintillating, subversive and always sophisticated.

In collaboration with Chanel.