The Best Women’s Watches At Watches And Wonders Geneva 2024

There’s always a first for everything, and being at the Watches and Wonders premiere fair and calling it an exhilarating experience would be an understatement. Held in the Palexpo in Geneva, the fair is considered the most important watch week—or the fashion week for watches—by many in the industry, and it’s no wonder with 54 brands exhibiting, including the biggest names in the industry like Rolex and Cartier, over a packed-to-the brims seven day period, with an estimated 49,000 guests in attendance. From the guest appearances—Gisele Bündchen to promote IWC’s latest launches—to the spectacular booths to outstanding launches, there were more than enough launches to keep the watch-loving community rapt for weeks after. I was astounded by the sheer abundance of choices for women’s watches. From cuff watches to ones with gold chain detailing to unique and eye-catching colours, here are the watches that dazzled, dared and delighted.

Chopard Happy Sport

While Chopard’s jaw-dropping jewellery watches always hold a special place in our hearts, its newest Happy Sport in a limited-edition luminous blue is a more wearable piece for every day. The icy-blue shade of the alligator strap and the choice of stones are standouts for us. With a diamond-paved bezel, this dial is brought to life with a finely guillochéd centre and a delightful mix of brilliant diamonds and sparkling aquamarines that dance across the face of the watch. Crafted from the brand’s proprietary Lucent Steel—made from at least 80 percent recycled materials—its slim but sizeable 33mm diameter is perhaps the happiest medium for today’s female horological enthusiast without veering into oversized or dainty categories.

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Cartier Reflection de Cartier

Cartier is known for pushing the boundaries of what a timepiece can look like, while at the same time mining the depths of its rich archives for brilliant new inspiration. The new Reflection de Cartier is the best of both worlds. Forward looking in its statement-making jewellery–watch form, the Reflection de Cartier is a cross between a bangle and a watch. With a modern and sculptural design, the streamlined shape would not be out of place paired with an evening gown or a daytime blazer—such is its versatility. The watch face—hidden almost like a secret watch and reflected against a polished, opposite surface—whispers, rather than shouts, yet its weighty presence screams statement piece. We love it in a pure rose or yellow gold, but gem-set and diamond-studded versions are opulent and just plain glamorous.

Piaget Cuff

The cuff watch is a Piaget classic that was first introduced in 1969. Featuring graphic gold openwork and the Maison’s signature—textured gold—these elegant jewellery watches are also known for their vibrant, coloured dials. Inspired by its Hidden Treasures cuff that was awarded the Le Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève prize in 2023, Piaget’s latest offering is a spotlight on the much-prized black opal on the dial. The stone shimmers with iridescent blue and green flashes, adding swirling depth to the dial, while the cuff is crafted from a handmade gold chain that is individually twisted, lending the goldwork an organic feel and coral-like asymmetry. There’s a subtle, sea-themed vibe to this watch and while it harkens back to its storied past there is also a striking modernity to this new iteration.

Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

Patek Philippe was another House that brought back a reference from the past with the 5738/1R the Golden Ellipse, which first debuted in 1968 in a yellow gold version with a blue gold dial. This new iteration, combining elegance with comfort, has a streamlined shape and a bracelet made of more than 300 links that closely follows the contours of the wrist. Equipped with an ultra-thin calibre 240, the details are what elevate this piece. The shape of the Ellipse, which rests between a circle and a rectangle, is complemented by the rose gold bracelet and chic, black sunburst dial, while the slender hour markers and hands rendered in rose gold give optimum legibility. A perfect evening watch and a future heirloom piece for sure, the Ellipse’s constant reinvention is a delightful surprise.

Hermès Cut

Trust the purveyor of perhaps the finest leather goods in the business to conjure up a watch of unerring elegance. The Cut is a brand new design for the Maison powered by a Manufacture Hermès H1912. For us, it’s the subtle details that elevate this watch. First the case has a unique shape, with a generous orb dial encased within an organic, slightly squarish, round shape. Adding to the offbalance aesthetic, the crown is positioned at the half-past one marker and bears an engraved or lacquered “H” for subtle stamping. On the steel model, the seconds hands are adorned with a dot in classic Hermès orange. Even the typeface on the dial—using Arabic numerals—are honed to perfection. The watch comes in various strap choices of integrated steel or steel-and-rose-gold bracelet as well as a selection of rubber straps in the classic Hermès palette. Our personal favourite is glycine—the perfect neutral. The verdict on the Hermès Cut? A new classic and something that pairs beautifully with your Birkins and Twillys.

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Vacheron Constantin Grand Lady Kalla

One of the most outstanding pieces at the fair was this high jewellery watch from Vacheron Constantin. The piece—which consists of a watch and a tassel sautoir—can be worn in four different ways including as a necklace and on the wrist, in different combinations. The watch face, for example, can be removed from the bracelet—in an ingenious mechanism that doesn’t require tools—and placed onto the centrepiece of the sautoir, reviving the charm and discretion of secret watches. Adorned with 57-faceted emerald-cut diamonds on the watch, the pendant is further embellished with diamonds, Akoya and onyx pearls. In total, 268 diamonds weighing more than 46 carats are used to craft this glittering gem-studded piece. The design, which harks back to Vacheron Constantins’s Kalla from 1980 has a chic black-and-white colour scheme that is timeless yet feels very contemporary.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été

We can’t think of a better timepiece to usher in spring than the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été. As with all the exquisite watches under the Lady Arpels line, Van Cleef & Arpels uses only the best techniques and materials to bring to life a duo of dancing butterflies on the watch dial. The white and yellow gold butterflies are rendered in plique-à-jour enamel and flutter at will—via an on demand animation that also moves the flowers and the stems. Against the matte, mother-of-pearl dial, precious stones and enamelling techniques are used to paint a poetic scene. The corollas of these blooms are crafted using vallonné enamel while their azure colour are complemented with spessartite garnet pistils. Meanwhile the beautiful details of the flowers include champlevé enamel leaves and blades of grass dotted with tsavorite garnets and plique-à-jour enamelling, while the stems are created using sculptural miniature painting for depth and dimension. Talk about spending time in paradise.

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Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray Pink Edition

We’re always glad to see exciting colourways on watches and Chanel doesn’t disappoint with its new Boy.Friend rendered in a fresh and exciting hot pink. The Boy.Friend watch—so named for the borrowed-from-the-boys aesthetic of the rectangular shape—has a sapphire crystal case and caseback. The X-Ray in its name means that the entire mechanical skeleton movement, a Calibre 3, is on display, in the fully transparent watch, making it the ultimate conversation piece. The best part is how this limited-edition piece (there are only 55 pieces available worldwide) nods to its high fashion roots. The plate and bridges of the movement are coated in pink and the quilted calfskin strap is in the same shade, meaning its colour theme is consistent throughout. Meanwhile the subtle Beige gold in the buckle and crown add a touch of luxe that is pure Chanel through and through.