Watches And Wonders 2026: Chanel Dazzles With The Coco Game Capsule Collection And Camélia Secret Watches
Chanel’s whimsical and wonderful timepieces play on the House’s codes in chic and unexpected ways.
By Renee Batchelor - published
At Watches and Wonders 2026, there was no shortage of dazzling, bejewelled jewellery watches. But Chanel truly upped the ante with the star piece: The Chessboard. Mademoiselle Chanel herself was the “queen” decked out in a classic Chanel tweed suit.
Other pieces took reference from the Chanel universe. The “king” is a lion—one of the key symbols of the House—while the “bishop” is represented by a mannequin bust. What better way to encapsulate Chanel’s colour palette of black and white, and its extensive high jewellery expertise?
The black obsidian chessboard has 64 squares alternating between black and white highly-resistant ceramic and is bordered in by a row of 516 brilliant-cut diamonds. The white pieces on the board were rendered in precious white gold and embellished with thousands of glittering, snow-set diamonds, set in a specially-developed “tweed setting” that mimic the brand’s signature material with metal and diamonds, while the black pieces was crafted from ceramic. The time? It’s subtly hidden beneath the queen’s slingbacks.
A close-up of the chess board shows Mademoiselle Chanel as “Queen” in a tweed suit specially set with diamonds
While the dazzling, one-of-a-kind piece sold before the fair even began (and was therefore not displayed), prototypes and behind-the-scenes imagery showcased the intricacies and details behind the creation process. The novelties this year showed just how far the luxury and couture House has come in developing its own innovative and fashion-led take on haute horlogerie.
With a capsule collection centred around the Coco Game theme, games could be seen in all shapes and forms. Think a pixelated Coco Chanel circling the dials of J12’s on the minute hand or appearing on a pendant that flips over to reveal a secret watch. Take a look at some of our picks for the collection highlights.
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Nœud De Camélia Secret Watches
Nœud De Camélia Cuff
The new Noued de Camélia secret watches tie together two major icons of the House—the camellia and the bow. These four secret watches and one ring bring together the watchmaking and jewellery Métiers d’art with those of couture.
Nœud De Camélia Cuff Diamonds Cuff
Two of the pieces in the collection are rendered in a grosgrain-effect leather bow—with one embellished with sequins by Maison d’art Lesage. Beneath a jewel-encrusted camellia flower, a secret watch is revealed by lifting the camellia flower, bringing a vintage charm to watchmaking. Also part of the collection are a secret watch ring and two diamond-encrusted cuffs in white gold that are made in very limited quantities.
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Gabrielle Watch
One of the crowd favourites at the fair was this exquisite Gabrielle watch from the brand’s haute horlogerie collection. Captured in her iconic pose and wearing a white tweed suit that is brilliantly captured thanks to the “tweed setting”, this is Gabrielle at her most mythic. The watch is crafted with a white gold case and a black lacquered dial, while the entire form of Coco Chanel is rendered entirely in white gold and set with 651 diamonds for a wonderfully sculpted, 3D effect.
Coco Game Long Necklace
Coco Chanel as a video game character? The creative powers at the brand thought, why not? Taking over four months to develop, Mademoiselle, adorned in her signature suit and half-pearl earrings, is reinterpreted as a pixelated drawing lifted from the world of video games. Here, her buttons, earrings and eyes are crafted from blackened titanium, and her silhouette is decorated with 193 diamonds. Flip her over to reveal a secret watch at the back.
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J12 Chanel Coco Game Charms
Continuing off the video game mode, Gabrielle Chanel is now a charm, hanging off the crown of a J12 watch. With a bezel set with glittering baguette-cut diamonds and a matte ceramic case enhanced with steel and black coating, there is a polish and precision to this piece which took over 10 months to perfect. Think of it as the ultimate wrist candy.