By Gracia Phang - published
"Our present is ruled by simultaneity of the gaze, media overexposure and fast consumption, which is why Haute Couture wants to offer a vision punctuated by a different temporality made of slowness, proximity, concentration,” Alessandro Michele mentions in his show notes, as the Valentino spring/summer haute couture show is viewed through the Kaiserpanorama, a collective optical machine with a circular wooden structure, perforated with little windows for audiences to peek through.
In today’s context of overstimulation and information overload, Michele forced his audience to focus and be hypnotised by his collection of 60 looks. A collection of 1920s Art Deco, Old Hollywood glam, high-to-the-heavens feathered headgear, and of course: Michele-theatrics. Below, our top picks from the show.
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Look 1
Fittingly appropriate and respectful of the Maison’s history and late founder, Michele started the collection with a bat-winged dress with a plunging neckline anchored by a knot at the naval, in Valentino Red—a vivid scarlet hue that has a tinge of orange, a shade synonymous with the late Mr. Valentino himself and Valentino the brand. As simple and straightforward this look was, it was a nod to him; a thank you of sorts.
Look 10
How the glory of this emerald velvet gown decorated with 1920s Art Deco elements shone through without elaborate accessories and jewellery. With its sleeves trimmed with gold beadings and embroidery, and its waist cinched by a wide sash dripping with glittering fringe, and its pink lining peeking through through the slits—it was opulence and sophistication with a modern twist.
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Look 18
Highly textural and extravagant, yet concealed with an air of mystery—look 18 intrigues us in the best way possible. A luscious tiered fur coat reminiscent of those worn during the glamourous Old Hollywood years is clutched tightly over a heavily embroidered gown; letting the viewers imagine the grand balls the lady has attended, her companions, and of course, the drama surrounding her.
Look 56
There’s something alluring about this look, despite it being less theatric than the rest of the collection. Featuring a hip-hugging skirt with a pink bow that extends as a train, styled with a bat-winged sleeved blouse with an oversized collar—the simple silhouette with its outré details draws viewers in for a closer look. The effortless yet captivating fit makes you want to be her.
Look 57
A complete opposite of the previous look, this gilded look dialled up the theatrics. Gold and glamorous, it purely focuses on the embroidered elements that would make a 1920s gown, yet stripped of the fabric beneath the bodice. Now, who do you think would be wearing this on the red carpet?